America’s beer diet has gotten a lot more square writes Kathleen Willcox. Before the pandemic, beer culture was ruled by small-batch 450-calorie pastry stouts and funky, 9% IPAs. In 2019, craft brewers grew their production by 4% year-over-year, and increased their retail dollar value by 6%.  Times have changed. Now, craft is cratering, and light lagers, n/a options…